Sewing Essentials Part 2

This is the second part in the series Sewing Essentials. In part one, I talked about my iron by Oliso. Today I want to share with you the other irons and ironing essentials I use in my sewing almost every day. You might ask, "Why do I use more than one  type iron?". Different irons are for different projects and I will explain how and why I use them.

First, is my Mini Cricut Press. Yes, it isn't just for ironing on vinyl! 

It is great for ironing open seams. It is 110V. Power: 150W. Heating plate size: 1.9"x3.3". Auto power-off after 15 minutes no use. I love the auto power-off feature and the pretty raspberry color. Mine is blue!

Cricut Mini Heat Press

My June Tailor Cushioned Mat make a great small ironing surfacesurface beside my sewing machine. I can quickly press open a seam or block my smocking pleats. The one I use has a smocking block guide on one side and a diamond and scallops shape guide on the other side. It is no longer available but this one Amazon will also work. 

It took me thirty years of sewing before I discovered the Clapper notion. Jeanna Hannah from Blue Ribbon Heirloom Designs used her Clapper in a video and I knew I had to order one from her website.

I will link the Clapper in the picture and then underneath I will type the link to her video. In her video she demonstrates how to use the Clapper.

https://blue-ribbon-heirloom-designs.thinkific.com/courses/tailors-clapper-instructional-video

It is a challenge to short puffed sleeves beautifully ironed. There are several methods I have sed in the past but I achieve the best resulted with my Vin Max Puff Iron. It is no longer available but I found one on Ebay and will link it below for you.

Be very careful when using this iron. Always keep your fabric moving or it will scorch your fabric!

Occasionally I use this tiny iron when sewing. It is the Clover Mini Iron.

The iron I use in my camper is a mini steam iron and it is great. There was a recall on some of the older models but mine was not listed in the recall. I purchased it off Amazon.

It doesn't take up much space and I also purchased a handy travel case for it.

How did I sew for so many years and not know I needed a sleeve pressing board? I use this all the time when sewing during camping trips. It is lightweight, folds flat, and is easy to store. I first saw a demonstration using this board on a Facebook video by Jeanna Hannah of Blue Ribbon Heirloom Designs. A link to this video is posted below the image.

Jeanna Hannah Ironing Demonstration

Click this link to my Instagram reel demonstrating my use of the board and iron.

Sleeve Board and Iron Video

There are many more notions I use while sewing. I'll talk about pressing cloths in another post. All images have a link where you can purchase the item shown in the image. Have a great weekend! 

Note: As an Amazon affiliate, I make a small commission of anything you purchase from an Amazon link.

Different Types of Elastic and How They are Used

If you are like me, it is confusing to know which elastic to use for sewing projects. Hopefully, the following will clear up some of the confusion. It starts with an explanation of elastic and then gives examples of four types of elastic and where they would be used.

Elastic is a flexible material frequently used in a variety of products. Elastic comes in a number of diff erent varieties, each having special qualities and uses. Fibers are interlaced to form a sturdy and long-lasting fabric to produce woven elastic. It has exceptional elasticity and a snug fit, and is frequently used in clothing, belts, and upholstery. By weaving together numerous rubber or latex strands, braided elastic is created, which is robust, light, and extremely stretchable. It is frequently used in sleeves, waistbands, and other areas where comfort and flexibility are crucial. Swimsuit elastic is made especially to survive exposure to chlorine and water, keeping its elasticity and shape even when wet. It frequently appears in swimsuits. Below are examples of elastic types and their uses.

Woven Elastic:

• Roll and twist resistant elastic; great for waistbands
• It is suitable for waistbands, sleeves, necklines, legbands and more.

Braided Elastic:

• Braided elastic is shrink resistant and unaffected by chlorine and salt water.
• Braided elastic is often inserted in to a casing but it is also suitable for stitching directly to the fabric.
• Use with light to medium weight fabrics
• Machine washable and dryable in temperatures up to 200 degrees F

Knit Elastic:

• When it comes to selecting the ideal fabric for your kids' clothing, factors such as comfort, breathability, and safety are of utmost importance.
• made with polyester silk and natural latex rubber making it breathable with a comfortable feel.
• offers excellent stretch with long-lasting elasticity guaranteed not to loosen over time.
• us for pajama pants to sportswear, skirts, and necklines.

Swimsuit Elastic:

Swimsuit elastic refers to a type of elastic material specifically designed for use in swimwear construction.It is a flexible, stretchable component used to provide support, comfort, and a secure fit in swimsuits.

Swimsuit elastic is typically made from a combination of synthetic fi bers, such as spandex or elastane, which possess excellent elasticity and resistance to degradation caused by exposure to chlorine, saltwater, and sunlight.

• The elastic is often sewn into the edges of swimsuit fabric or incorporated into waistbands and leg openings to ensure the swimsuit conforms to the body and maintains its shape during movement and water activities.
• Available in clear, colors, and cotton.

Sally from Farmhouse Fabrics give a great presentation on the types of elastic in this You Tube Video:

Sally Explains Elastic

If you have never watched Sally on Gab 'n Gush on Tuesdays and Fridays, please watch. I think you will enjoy it. Sally is the owner of Farmhouse Fabrics. Farmhouse Fabrics is an ecommerce fabric and notions store with thousands of selections. Here is the link:

Farmhouse Fabrics

For people with with latex allergies, there also elastics available. Other elastic types to explore are elastic thread, elastic thread looks, elastic in colors, decorative elastic. There are seemingly endless types of elastic. With some research, you can find the perfect type for your project.

Happy Saturday!

Sewing Essentials Part One

 As a sewing enthusiast, I have my cherished notions and equipment that I rely on time and time again.Today, I want to share a selection of my personal favorites, some of which I consider essential and others that have proven to be valuable additions to my sewing studio. It's worth noting that these items represent just a fraction of my collection, and in future posts, I will delve into greater detail about all the different items within each category.

To start, let's talk about my trusty iron. Given the amount of ironing and pressing I do with sewing, I tend to go through irons rather swiftly, experimenting with various brands along the way. Since my iron tends to be in use for most of the day, I always opt for one equipped with an automatic shutoff feature. Allow me to introduce you to my latest iron, which has quickly become a favorite in my collection. Its performance has impressed me, and I truly appreciate its features!

As you can see from the picture, it is by Oliso and it is a smart iron. It's unique feature lies in the soleplate, which is capable of ascending and descending with a simple touch of the handle. Click here to go to Amazon and purchase. https://amzn.to/3ABpLyu

Nest, is my favorite and most used scissors. In my humble opinion, Gingher brand scissors are the best on the market for sewing. I really like this pair with the lock on them. They are so comfortable to use and cut with precision!

They are spring action. I purchased mine off Amazon and here is the link: https://amzn.to/427zYOH

Next up on my list of must-have sewing essentials if a seam ripper. I've owned different brands but my favorite is by Bernina. 

Several places sell them online and I don't remember where I purchased mine but here is a link to a place online that sells them. I buy multiples!

https://stitchinheaven.com/products/bernina-seam-ripper-006993-52-1?variant=39728155328572&variant=39442612781116&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgLOiBhC7ARIsAIeetVAY1Gly3_Ad-nUwcjQamv6QuGLjnxNmivu5lggr7Gm3Iak4zJWcJdcaAvcFEALw_wcB

My cutting table is where all projects start. I purchased it and the mat many years ago from JoAnn fabric store. 

https://www.joann.com/sullivans-home-hobby-table/13132808.html

The cutting mat is sold separately.

I found this one on Amazon that I like better and it has a grid top. It looks like you have to purchase a self healing mat separately. https://amzn.to/42dnMw9

Don't you just love the shelf and cute baskets!

Here is a self healing mat that should fit the top of the table.

There may be better options for the mat. Mine has lines for bias that I use often. Anyway, here is the link in case you want to check it out for yourself: https://amzn.to/3HqJTqS

Thank you for reading my blog. I will continue with Sewing Essentials Part 2 soon.

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How It All Began

I fell in love with French Hand Sewing and English Smocking when my first daughter was an infant. I've sewn and done simple hand embroidery since I was about nine years old. My first project on a sewing machine was an apron for 4-H when I was nine years old. Both my mother and my grandmother had sewing machines. I still remember the clothing my mother made me growing up. My husband, children, and I spent summer vacations at his parents house. The first summer after my daughter was born, a friend of my mother-in-laws taught me how to pleat, smock, and construct a bishop dress. My mother-in-law (Tommie) purchased a pleating machine and I've never stopped smocking.

I didn't think it was too bad for my first try!

The pleater my mother-in-law purchased for me is still the one I use today thirty-nine years later.

After returning home that summer, I looked in the yellow pages (yes, there used to be a book published listing all the local businesses) and found that Tuscaloosa, Alabama had a smocking and heirloom sewing shop called Sew Fancy. Later the name was changed to Sew So Fancy. I still remember getting my 19 month old and 6 month old out of the van, putting them in their double stroller and wondering how I was going to get them up the stairs of the old Victorian house where the shop was located. Luckily, the owners of the shop saw me and helped get the stroller into the store. A life long friendship began that day between me and those two sweet women, Swiss Batiste, and French lace. 

The world of heirloom sewing was new to me and I desparately wanted to learn all about it. One of the first things I learned was there were two techniques; french sewing by hand and french sewing by machine. French sewing my hand has been used for many generations and uses the finest fabrics and laces so in order for me to try to duplicate the look on the machine, I knew I needed to first learn the technique by hand. 

Lessons were a must as were books by Sarah Howard Stone. 

   
                           

During my class, I learned all the techniques from a great teacher and friend. This was a hands on project so I had to select what I wanted to make. My daughter had auburn red hair so I decided aqua Swiss Batiste and ecru laces would be a good choice. Below are pictues of the finished results.

Note the french seams and hand rolled and gathered skirt ruffle. 

Pattern used was Bijoux by Sarah Howard Stone in a size 1.

I plan to share more of my journey in furture posts.

Special Wedding Keepsakes

 My niece had a lovely wedding at the beach last Christmas and I had a grand time helping her and her mom create special touches for the wedding. They searched the internet for a ring bearer pillow and couldn't find anything like they liked so they asked me to create one for them. It had been a very long time since I had made a pillow but I got busy! Here is a picture of the finshed product.

I used white Maline lace, white pima batiste, white entredeux, Mother of Pearl buttons, and white satin ribbon.
Here is a picture of the back of the pillow.

An elastic enclosed band  was added to the back so the young ring bearer would have something to hold onto and hopefully not drop the pillow! The body of the pillow measured 8" x 8" and ended up being the perfect size.

The bride also wanted custom handkerchiefs for herself, her mother, groom's mother, plus the groom's grandmother. I decided the father of the bride would definitely need a handkerchief! The female handkerchiefs were made using linen fabric, hemstitching, and french Val lace. The blue thread used coordinated with the bridesmaid's dresses and other wedding colors.

The handchief for the father-of-the-groom was different. I didn't think he would be too thrilled with lace on his handkerchief so I made one of my linen hemmed and hemstitched handkerchiefs. Here it looked and he definitely needed it before and during the ceremony for some happy tears.

When I sent the package to the bride before the wedding, I included a few surprises. I made a lovely set of garters for her to wear. One for her to wear and save as a keepsake and one to wear and throw at the reception.

Something I did for my daughter when she married last summer (another post about it later) was make a custom satin ribbon label for her wedding dress. I thought my niece needed one, too. In addtion to a label for her dress, I made two more labels for the father of the bride and groom ties. She loved the special touch. Again, I used the same blue font font used on the handkerchiefs. I hand stitched them into the garments after I arrived a few days before the wedding.

Below is a picture of everything before it was shipping to my niece. 

I hope you have enjoyed seeing the special items I made for the wedding. Handerchiefs can be ordered from my Etsy shop Monogram Elegance

Pink Swiss Batiste Baby Gown and Bonnet

It has been too long since I last posted to Behind The Monogram. I've been busy with life and constructing beautiful heirloom garments. Today I want to share with you a pink baby gown set.

The set is made using a pale pink cotton batiste called Bearissima from Bear Thread, LTD. It is a beautiful fabric and so easy to work on. The laces are ecru French Valenciennes laces. I used my favorite baby gown pattern Babette by Sarah Howard Stone.

Narrow beading is sewn to the front placket and the ruffle is attached with entredeux. The wrist bands are made using narrow beading sewn to the gathered long sleeve and fabric ruffle with entredeux. Tiny 1/8th inch ribbon is woven through the beading holes on the front placket and tied in a bow at the wrists.

Ivory hand embroidery compliments this sweet gown in the front corners and the placket inside edge is stitched down with feather stitching. The embroidery design came from one of Sarah Howard Stone's books on heirloom sewing. Most of my inspiration comes from her books.

The details on the sleeves turned out lovely. Down the center of the long sleeve is a lace band attached to the fabric with machine hemstitching. If you have read previous posts you know I have one of the old - older than I am - Singer hemstitch machines. 

Taking great photographs is still a challenge for me. Some of the pictures turned out too light but hopefully you can still see the detail in the photos. The picture above shows the hand embroidery corner design. It has bullion roses and tiny leaves.

The picture above is a close-up of the from placket detail. There are tiny bullion roses and leaves between the buttonholes. The placket closes with tiny Mother of Pearl buttons.

The back of the bonnet has the same lace band and hemstitching as the sleeve. The crown is attached to the bonnet with hemstitching and gathered lace.

Hand embroidery compliments the front band of the bonnet and ribbon rosettes are attached to each end. The bonnet ties under the chin with ecru stain ribbon. A matching A-line slip completes the set.

This sweet set would make a great Coming Home from the hospital outfit, a great first portrait outfit, or a beautiful baby dedication outfit. I hope you have enjoyed reading about this project and I hope to post more of my work soon.

Have a nice day!

You can see more of my work by clicking this link and visiting my Etsy Shop Monogram Elegance.

Monogram Elegance and of course you can shop for the perfect baby gift at The Polka Dot Store .